Hello Ally: Picking the brains of founder Alison Lloyd

Ally with her Freddie holdall

Ally at the Squat launch at the Calvert Avenue shop, June 2024. Photo by Agnes Lloyd-Platt.

July 12, 2024

Today Ally takes us back to where it all began, via childhood memories of colour, learning how to sew, and never having a clear plan… 

My first job was designing womenswear for M&S. It was just after I had graduated from the Fashion & Textiles course at Middlesex Poly. My ideas were too bold for the M&S customer, so I only lasted 3 months there. Some of my samples found their way home with the buyers, it transpired.

Kate sitting at a table that has both her Leila bags on it. One old and worn and one new

Ally as a student in 1977 

I started making clothes when I was about 13. I would take commissions from friends at school, to make them corduroy trousers and shirts. I bought the fabric on Leeds market and used my mum’s sewing machine. She wouldn’t have considered herself a maker - everyone made clothes for their kids in those days.

My earliest memory of creativity is just looking at colours. I had some pencils that were a different colour on each end. The one I remember was pink on one end and green on the other, a really apple-y green and a sort of reddish-pink. I have always loved looking at colour, I still do. This shows up a lot in the Ally Capellino range with things like the new Hank.
Kate a a front door wearing her old Leila bag
I’m also practical — I like the putting together of things. There’s a real satisfaction to things working. When I was designing for M&S, I would go into the machine room and work with the machinists , basically that’s where I learned to sew.

I began making jewellery after I left the M&S supplier. They were made out of plastic knitting needles and Perspex and lighting gel. It was sort of inspired by the Memphis style of the time (around 1980). It was post-punk, there was a sort of resurgence of primary colour plastics. My first stockist was ‘Detail’ in Covent Garden, which was just starting to be something more than a fruit & veg market. I just walked in and showed them the jewellery and they agreed to stock it.
Blue Frances bag being worn by Melissa

Ally Capellino Memphis-inspired jewellery, late 70s 

Betty Jackson wanted some hats for a show. My ex, Jono (Jonathan Platt), was working for her at the time as a pattern cutter. I made her some little paper conical hats. We thought ‘Capellino’ meant ‘little hat’ in Italian, but we spelt it with one ‘p’ so that changes the meaning a bit to something more like ‘child’s hat’ or ‘thin hair.’ It was never really intended to be a long-term thing.


Our Moscow Olympics collection was our first foray into clothes. We joined a group called Individual Clothes Show. They had a joint catwalk show and we had only bracelets and earrings to show, so we made 5 pieces of clothing, a Perspex hat and various bracelets, all printed with a design that was cobbled together from a swimming instruction book and some geographical illustrations. By the time the orders were delivered, Russia had invaded Afghanistan and 66 countries had decided to boycott the affair. All of a sudden it was in the news, and we got some great press — a big page in the Daily Mail. But we never set out to make a political statement.

Simon's cycle route drawn on a map and his little Ally Capellino bag

Two of the Moscow Olympics pieces featured in a recent photoshoot for the Perry backpack in black. 

Simon's cycle route drawn on a map and his little Ally Capellino bag
Ally Capellino’s first collection in the Daily Mail, 1979 
Whistles was our first customer. It had just been opened by Lucille Lewin. She put in an order for about £300 worth of stock and from that point on we had a business. We had no idea if that was enough to keep us afloat! Lucille had some great advice in those early days, like the idea of doing matching separates. Things grew from there. 
Simon's cycle route drawn on a map and his little Ally Capellino bag
1990s Vogue shoot, featuring British women designers. From left: Vivienne Westwood, Lulu Guinness, Alison Lloyd, Georgina von Etzdorf, Clemence Ribeiro, Betty Jackson, Margaret Howell. 
Le style anglais was the Ally Capellino currency in the 80s. We grew very quickly from a very low start using lots of British and Scottish tweeds and Lancashire cottons, topped off with sheepskin jackets. The Italians gobbled it up and we soon had 80 stockists there. This was followed by Japanese interest in the business and we signed a deal with the giant Itochu corporation. They opened five or six shops in Japan, followed by Wardour Street in London. Soho was not on the map for fashion, but there were lots of prostitutes, film production companies and actors’ agents. Fashion shows were a twice a year event with lots of coverage from a press that didn’t have its hands tied by advertisers.

I wanted to keep challenging myself. So in the 90s as I saw young designers coming up, that pushed me to keep trying new things. It became more modern, with clean styling and experimental fabrics, taking inspiration from artists.

The kitchen table was the humble start for the bags. I had some bits of leather so I had a go at a bag, not easy on a normal sewing machine! I was self-taught and used techniques normally used in clothing. I was bored and had time on my hands around other work, so I just started making. London Fashion Week let me have a tiny space and I got this huge order from Japan. That kicked off the business that I’d never really meant to have.
Simon's cycle route drawn on a map and his little Ally Capellino bag
Ally’s Squat bag in Khaki
Today I’m carrying my Squat Bag. It’s tiny, with playful proportions, and fits in a lot more than you might think. Today it’s got my phone, glasses case, mascara, dental floss, my Ally Capellino Key Lanyard, perfume, lip balm, and my Ally Capellino Coin Purse.  

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